The history of Philadelphia is often noted for its stake as the nation’s first capital and home to numerous signers of the Declaration of Independence, but no other city has such a lengthy relationship with that divine combination of yeast, malt (barley), hops, and water than the City of Brotherly Love. There’s even a neighborhood appropriately named Brewerytown! Sure- antiquated and misunderstood blue laws put restrictions on alcohol intake, making it difficult to even buy single bottles in Pennsylvania, and the Prohibition movement in the 1920’s all but eliminated most of Philadelphia’s beer producers, but microbreweries are popping up almost monthly in the city and its suburbs, and they aren’t making pale yellow swill, but delicious, award-winning craft beers. Unfortunately, I hardly ever venture into the city since I loathe the drive along crowded 2 lane highways, the public transportation is not very efficient, and save for a few neighborhoods, it’s not the best city to walk around. But I sucked it up- there were a few bars and breweries I convinced myself were worth a visit into the city.
The first bar along the stop was Memphis Taproom. After a rousing game of planes (ok buses), trains, and automobiles, I was definitely ready for a drink. Their selection of draft beers was decent and the bottle list impressive. I tried the Russian River Damnation, a golden elixir that can be too easily consumed, and Yards Brawler, a good session beer with a caramel sweetness and cereal-like malt aftertaste. The service was good, provided by a brassy but knowledgeable chick with corporate sleeve tattoos. As the owner tapped a new keg, he provided a detailed description and a sample to the bartender, which I love to see because nothing is worse than a bartender who doesn’t have a clue what he or she is serving. She also offered good suggestions to other patrons about what beer would satisfy their preferred style. The next stop was Philadelphia Brewing Company, a short walk through a “transitional” neighborhood. It’s a very unique place and there has obviously been a lot of work invested in this once dilapidated building. The bar is upstairs in a large room, just feet from the tanks. I’ve had Joe’s before, a delectable beer of (locally roasted fair trade Peruvian) coffee, chocolate, and caramel flavors. I also sampled the Kenzinger, a biscuity corn grain kolsch that isn’t bad but not much my taste.
The Market-Frankford El dropped us off in Old City. We found barstools in the corner of Triumph and I ordered a sampler. The Honey Wheat was surprisingly good. I’m not usually a fan of honey flavored beers but the local wildflower honey provided a muted sweetness that balanced the malt nicely. The German Pilsner was the color of well-hydrated pee and boring in taste. I was also not impressed by the Vienna Lager (yawn), the Irish Red Ale, the Bengal Gold IPA (not as hoppy as I expected), or the Irish Dry Stout, which definitely tasted like an Ode to Guinness, something no craft brewer should ever attempt to accomplish. Letting the Stout warm in my mouth produced a little more of the toasted, nutty flavor the beer promised but it still wasn’t up to my expectations. They also offered a Scotch Ale, which had no alcohol warmth a too much caramel sweetness. My favorite was easily the Jewish Rye Beer, a delectable, cloudy beer with the flavor of seeded sourdough rye bread. And even if you don’t have to go, the bathrooms are worth a visit. I’ve only been one other place with restrooms with frosted glass doors (Tao at the Venetian in Vegas) and while guys are typically using the facilities while staring at the wall, women get to face the still somewhat transparent door wondering how they could accomplish this any faster. You’ll never see women pee so quickly!
We passed by Eulogy and decided it was too crowded to venture in, taking the train to Nodding Head. I ordered a 3C Extreme Ale, a bitter blend of Chinook, Cascade, and Centennial hoppy goodness. We also tried the Old Sot, a Barleywine-style ale with a malty, citrus flavor and strong 10.5% ABV. I sampled the 60 Shilling, a malty, amber-colored Scottish ale and the 700 Level, a light bodied blonde ale with a pleasant hop finish. We finished with the BPA, a decent piney hop session ale, and a glass of Grog, an English style brown ale with a lot of malt and chocolate undertones, an excellent session beer. And good luck to Garman, the bachelor whose posse arrived in cutesy matching, long sleeved t-shirts announcing his “last stand.” Could have been just as fitting sipping a pink Cosmo… This was our last stop, concluding my informal tour of some of Philadelphia’s beer network, at least until Philly beer week!