It was a lofty goal many doubted was attainable. How to convert a car convention into a brewpub tour with an itinerary that appears to have been created by someone afflicted with both ADD and OCD disorders? 2000 miles, 14 breweries/ brewpubs/bars, and 7 states in 7 days- just a mini “RumSpringa Flinga” to experience some new places. Leaving after work, the first night was spent in southwestern Virginia near one leg of the Blue Ridge Parkway, where roads conjured up fantasies of curving out lines in a race prepped track car. Dinner and drinks were provided by Devils Backbone, a brewpub that opened this past November. The beer battered fried pickles and chicken salad wrap were tasty mostly because it was late and my stomach was empty. The beers were decent, preferring the Vienna Lager (malt, caramel, and toast) and the Ramsey’s Draft Stout (roasted malt on nitrogen for a creamy dry stout). The rooms at the nearby B&B were converted horse stables and otherwise not occupied, being the off-season. They were “quaint” (small) and “country-homey” (hay-scented), but “budget-friendly” (cheap) and “conveniently-located” (a stumble from the brewpub), and the owners had various pictures of their biking trips around the world to help you decide where to visit next. Morocco or Iceland anyone? Hmmm- not sure either is known for its beer or cars…
The next leg of the trip was a 5 hour journey to Asheville, North Carolina, winding through the Appalachian Mountains. Natty Greene’s Pub in Greensboro, NC offered a good halfway stopping point for lunch. The menu was typical pub grub and a beer sampler included 11 choices from an Old Town Brown (English style Brown with toasted malt and bakers chocolate) to General Stout (creamy Irish dry Stout with a coffee nose) to a Slam Dunkelweizen (German dark wheat with accents of banana and clove), a mostly decent selection. I also ordered a Cannonball Double IPA seasonal which was available in bottles only.
Next stop was Pisgah Brewing Company. I’ve sampled some of their beers before when fellow beer geeks Deuane and Carolyn bring back “souvenirs” from their trips down here. The Valdez is one of the best coffee beers I’ve ever tried, brewed with organic, fair-trade coffee beans. I tried the Dancin’ Hobo, a raspberry, champagne yeast, and charred oak “Dirty Ho on steroids” with 13% ABV and the Red Devil, a 9% Belgian Ale brewed with a pound of cherries and raspberries per gallon but not too tart. I also sampled the IPA (a classic 7.5% flare for the hops), Solstice (9.5% Tripel with fruity esters and soft malt character), and Baptista (Belgian Noel with spices). We purchased bottles of Valdez, Vortex I (triple IPA), Vortex II (Russian Imperial Stout), and Saison (Belgian farmhouse ale).
Off to French Broad Brewing, a small, dark brewery just 15 minutes from Pisgah. With this many stops, thirst wasn’t the first thing on my mind. This was a good thing as their beers were far from knocking my socks off. The Wee Heavy-er Scotch Ale had that butterscotch flavor of an infected brew. However, the tasting room is pretty chill and they do have live local bands perform often, so I wouldn’t oppose giving them another opportunity. The next stop was Wedge Brewing, a cool hangout spot on the river. Stupid GPS systems have an annoying tendency to keep you on paved roads only and you’ll miss it. Seek out the dirt parking lot on the other side of the building. Wedge is affiliated with an artist’s shop and their beers are close to masterpieces, especially the Russian Imperial Stout, a 9% creamy (nice head!) Expresso/Dark Chocolate blend with a slight zing of raspberry. Unfortunately it wasn’t offered in growlers or bottles (I pleaded, begged really) forcing us to savor every last drop of the first and console ourselves with another. Complimentary salted peanuts were a nice supplement for my sloshing stomach. On the way to the downtown accommodations, we stocked up on local beers at Bruisin’ Ales, a impressive beer store with an awesome selection of Belgians and craft beers from all states.
Fistbump! A downtown hotel within walking distance of all the Asheville bars! Asheville has an eclectic vibe going on. Great drinking holes, little artist shops, “homeless” guitar strummers dotting the sidewalks, and a tri-sexual community- you know, “try” anything… It’s just the kind of place you EXPECT to find good beer since most good brewers tend to border eclectic. Or is that insane? Either way, I was eager to try some Green Man beers and Jack of the Wood is the downtown brewpub that serves them. A sampler included the Gold Ale (biscuit malt), IPA (says “monster hopped” but just 6% and 65 IBU’s), and cask conditioned Pale Ale, a beer you don’t tend to find on cask. I got my country bumpkin on line dancing in my head to a local blue grass band playing in the corner, but had slight “urbanitis” not attired in some holy, denim overalls, the best in “crappy chic” fashion. Next stop- dinner; something substantial has to start sopping up this beer. The Asheville Brewing Company menu was mostly the typical bar fare with one exception- a soy cheese pizza that I accessorized with chorizo sausage, mushrooms, and roasted red peppers. Surprisingly, the soy cheese didn’t melt like plastic roasting on an open flame or taste like a pizza box. It melted with the same consistency as any gooey cheese should. The server explained the secret is the casein (milk protein) in their soy cheese, something straight vegan cheese doesn’t contain. Any ideas where to find some good melty soy cheese??? The beers were nothing special but they can seat up to 150 people at their semi-outdoor movie theater. Where else can you pay $3 to watch a movie at a place that also serves craft beer?
Off to Thirsty Monks and with inconceivable luck, finding myself in Asheville the only night of Terrapin Brewing’s Secret Stash party. This included two limited release side project beers, the Dos Cocoas (double chocolate porter) and Monk’s Revenue (Belgian IPA). They also served an aged cask-conditioned India Style Brown Ale and bottles of Wheat Wine, Wake ‘N Bake Coffee Oatmeal Stout, and Terra-Rye’Zd, a black rye lager collaboration between Terrapin and Left Hand Brewing. Thirsty Monks also included other fine craft beers on tap such as Moylan’s Double Moylander (a standby favorite IPA of mine) and Stone Smoked Porter. Be sure to explore the downstairs as well, coined the Belgian Basement. The last stop of the night was Barley’s Taproom and Pizzeria, where I forced myself to drink a few pitchers of water before indulging in Catawba Valley Firewater IPA. I was impressed by something I’ve never heard of. What a crafty place Asheville is- approaching midnight in the middle of the week and a there were firkin people everywhere still enjoying their brews. Time to catch some ZZZ’s- if I were a camel, my hump would be full!
How can you drink so much beer in such a short time? You must have been peeing like a racehorse!
A beer tour! how fun!
Definitely a big fan of the Wedge, Pisgah Pale Ale is probably one of the best selling beers in Asheville, and the folks are Bruisin’ Ales are just awesome.
With regards to your last few statements, yeah we’re serious about our micro brews. 🙂 We’re even leading the Beer City USA polls:
http://www.examiner.com/x-241-Beer-Examiner~y2009m3d19-Examiner-Beer-City-USA-Poll–which-city-ranks-as-your-best